26 Jan motorcycle fork oil weight chart
After re-valving, the adjusters will be brought into play, and when you make an adjustment, you will be able to notice that it affects the way the way the fork or shock performs. – The rear wheel to slide under acceleration . A tight chain will place a lot of unnecessary strain on itself, the sprockets and even gearbox bearings. Â A:Â A “RACE” tire heat cycle is when a tire is brought up to operating temperature and run for some laps, then allowed to cool. Have a third person balance the bike from the front. If correct, then decrease compression “gradually” until chattering and shaking ceases. Solution: Too much rebound. Thanks TYPES OF RIDING The types of riding determine you expected setup. The front suspension “bottoms out” with a solid hit under heavy braking and after hitting bumps. Often with stock components, when you turn the adjusters full in or out, you do not notice a difference. Bumps and ripples are felt directly; the initial “hit” is routed through the chassis instantly, with big bumps bouncing the tire off the pavement. Turn the adjuster (6) to change the overall length of the rear suspension shock absorber length (A) (distance between centers). Street riders usually use 30 to 35mm. As with the street setup, first ensure that your bike’s suspension components are in good working order, and you have relatively new tires installed. Most of us don’t have the equipment needed to measure tire temperature directly so we measure it indirectly by checking tire pressure since tire pressure increases with tire temperature. From 5W, 10W to 15W, find the right fork oil for your motorbike. Do not bounce. The resulting ride is firmer with less dive under braking while simultaneously lessening the amount of force square-edged bumps transfer to the chassis. – Understeer! Increase compression “gradually until traction and control is optimized and/or excessive rear end squat is gone. We’ll tell you why this occurs and how to handle it. Motorcycle Fork Oil. My service manual calls for 'E' weight, but my dealer sold me 'B'. I state that the adjustment process is a game because of the trade offs that must be made.Â There are trade offs that can be given for each adjustment that you make to your bike.Â These trade off must be balanced against the gains that a specific adjustment makes to improve your suspension.Â. Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Solution: The ride is smooth and supple at low speeds, but higher speeds generate greater amounts of energy that can’t be dissipated with the little damping available. Dialing in the rebound more accurately can be accomplished by riding the bike over a rough section of pavement; the suspension should not pack down (too stiff), nor should the bike be wallowy like a Cadillac (too soft). It is caused when liquids are forced through some type of restriction. Determining the style of the rider also affects the way your setup reacts for a particular person.Â A smooth rider will have a different setup compared to a point and shoot style of riding.Â It is all relative to you and your bike. – It feels harsh in the corners. Check your steering head bearings for notchiness or tightness and replace them if needed. The different level of oil effects the spring ratio from the middle of the stroke and has a very strong effect at the end of the stroke. Too hard spring ratio: – Good under braking. Indian brand fork oil does not say the weight on the bottle and service manual keeps this a secret as well. Movement of the Forks within the Triple Clamps, Â can be substituted for the preload adjuster. Symptoms: The bike will not turn in entering a turn. If there were no drag in the linkage the bike would come up a little further. In this video, I show you how to change the oil in the front forks of your motorcycle (inverted forks). There is very little rear end squat. Indian brand fork oil does not say the weight on the bottle and service manual keeps this a secret as well. We at Superbike-Coach know about the value and we are willing to share this knowledge with this guideline and in our ‘. Start with the bike manufacturer’s recommendation in the owners manual or under-seat sticker. Usually this is easiest with the bike on the side stand (the center stand usually gets in the way) and propped up as close as possible to vertical. Since trail is dependent on rake, it is a variable dimension that changes proportionally with the variation of rake during suspension action. The first step to setting up any bike is to set the spring sag and determine if you have the correct-rate springs. Don’t vary from these numbers if you’re heavier or lighter–that’s the whole idea of measuring sag while you are on the bike. Increase rebound “gradually” until control and traction are optimized and chatter is gone. This measurement is L1. Once again, make small changes between test sessions over the same road to feel and compare the different settings. If not correct, sprocket wear is increased. If you like the feel of the bike with less or more sag than these guidelines, great. Trying to figure out a handling problem can be tricky. From there the plan is to get the front wheel straight, and then the rear wheel adjusted so it is too. After hitting bumps at speed, the front tire tends to chatter or bounce. First, verify that oil height is correct. This is due to incorrect oil height and/or too much low speed compression damping. If suspension bottoms in big bump or hollow, it should not automatically mean that the suspension should be set more hard. Further, if you’re running alloy wheels on poor pavement, consider adding 2 psi to the recommended tire pressure just to reduce the likelihood of pothole damage. The oil level works most effectively at the end of the fork travel. He doesn’t have any confidence because his bike feels nervous and twitchy, especially over bumpy sections where it doesn’t absorb the bumps, and his tires lose grip easily. Aggressive input at speed lessons control and chassis attitude suffers. Step 2: Downward Compression suspension with Rider on the bike and measure. Doesn't that mean you want a 7.5-10 weight oil max? Symptoms: Front-end dives severely, sometimes bottoming out over heavy bumps or during aggressive breaking. As an example for 2004 Aprilia RSV Mille the recommended starting temperatures for STREET use are. – The rear “tops out” too fast under braking, causing the rear wheel to jump – The bike feels unstable. Ride is generally hard, and gets even harder when braking or entering turns. The more the tire deforms, the more friction there is between the tire and the road surface. How to set your sag. If out of balance, there will be vibration in either wheel Steering head bearings and torque specifications, If too loose, head will shake at high speeds. I understand the technical difference between 5wt and 10wt fork oil is the viscosity, which is the ability of the fluid to flow at a defined temperature but is there much difference in the feel at the handlebar with similar damping settings dialled into the fork. Traction is poor over bumps during hard acceleration (due to lack of suspension compliance). Insufficient rebound: Increase rebound until wallowing and weaving disappears and control and traction are optimized. If the preload adjuster becomes maxed out during testing and dial-in, a set of heavier rate springs or a larger preload spacer (inside the fork) may be necessary. The front end has a mushy and semi-vague feeling–similar to lack of rebound damping. VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. It is used in tuning the amount of air contained inside the fork. Decrease compression until harshness is gone. – The rear wheel to slide under acceleration . Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and builds for all Indian models. While the most scientific means of determining if a particular pressure is the use of a pyrometer to assess whether the rubber has reached the manufacturer’s recommended temperature, charting the pressure increase of a tire after track sessions will give a good impression of how hard a tire is working. Care should be taken to ensure that the front wheel/fender isn’t getting too close to bottoming out on the lower triple clamp or radiator when lowering the front or raising the fork tubes. Don’t bounce. As temperature goes, so goes pressure. Check wheel alignment with triple clamps. I state that the adjustment process is a game because of the trade offs that must be made. Insufficient compression. Too soft spring ratio: – Gives good traction in acceleration. Front end rides high through the corners, causing the bike to steer wide. Fill out the check sheet Check chain alignment. Where it stops, measure it. Continue experimenting, making adjustments accordingly. where a line drawn through the steering head would intersect the ground) and the contact patch of the tire. It should maintain the pre-determined sag, which will allow the steering geometry to remain constant. First see manual. Rear Ride Height Adjustment, proceed as follows: Slightly loosen the lock nut (5) . WHY BOTHER? However, if suspension bottoms at the place were the maximum grip is essential the tire cannot create the best traction, because it also has to perform as spring. Decrease rebound “gradually” until harsh ride is gone and traction is regained. It probably won’t be lined up perfectly, but plonking yourself in the saddle and using your own weight (or that of a friend) is a good start. Increase “gradually” until control and traction are optimized. – It holds the rear down with the result that the bike will understeer! (Note: the A/B up front does not have to match A/B on the back.). Simple. Track tire pressure is a different animal altogether. Front-end dives severely, sometimes bottoming out over heavy bumps or during aggressive breaking. Step 1: Extend the suspension completely and measure.Â Â By getting the wheel off the ground. One of the major keys to a successful suspension setup is the condition of the components. If the measurement is not exactly vertical the sag numbers will be inaccurate (too low). However, too much front sag combined with too little rear sag could make the bike unstable. Problem: WhenÂ brakingÂ hard approaching a corner, the front fork bottoms out severely, especially over bumps. So the rear tire cold-to-hot increase is greater. Under hard acceleration exiting bumpy corners, the front end feels like it wants to “wiggle” or “tankslap.” The tire feels as if it isn’t staying in contact with the pavement when on the gas. This is where our procedure is different: We take two additional measurements. As with rebound damping, it’s always best to err on the light side with compression, and for the same reasons. The bars seem to “twitch” excessively whenever a mid-corner bump is encountered. The rear tire runs hotter than the front tire on both road and track. when I replaced the fork inards . A sportbike should normally not use its full suspension stroke, although on some circuit one or two big bumps or hollows can cause the suspension to bottom. Solution: Decrease compression “gradually” until bike neither bottoms or rides high. Step 5: Adjust the preload.Â To adjust sag use the preload adjusters, if available, or vary the length of the preload spaces inside the fork. For example, if a tire is found to have 38 psi on an 80-degree mid-summer day, it could lose enough air to have an inflation pressure of 26 psi on a 20-degree day six months later. I am still in the process of rebuilding the front forks on Cal (my 1972 Harley-Davidson FLH Shovelhead), and I thought I would put together a quick FAQ about motorcycle fork oil – nothing ground shattering here, but certainly a list of reasonable questions that people sometimes ask.1. All bikes will have different characteristics which means my starting riding temperature is different than yours. , pump the forks within the triple clamps of check valves, holes, ports, shims,,... To you, etc. ) and should be in the pictures seldom sees temperatures as high 150! 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